I love food! And approximately one year ago I became vegan, which, I would say, is an event in itself in anyone's life. In my life however it is kind of……Awkward.
I’m a chef and have been for 12 years, I’m the Head-Chef of a well(ish) regarded Restaurant, I’m not a fine dining chef (much to the disgust of my inner snob over the years) but I am a very good, Anthony Bourdain type, steakhouse chef and over the years I have been indirectly involved in the slaughter of a large amount of non-human animals.
Prior to becoming vegan I was not a conscientious eater, in fact, despite detailed knowledge of what factory farmed animals went through I couldn’t care less where my food came from. I ate anything, and I was pretty proud of that fact (much to the distaste of my vegetarian - now also vegan - wife).
No, seriously… I. Ate. Anything. (Almost anyway, I don’t think I ever ate an eyeball).
Liver. Tongue. Brain. Tripe. Marrow. The more warped it was, the more outside the ordinary eating experience, the more I enjoyed both the eating, and the bragging about it afterward.
Now, for those of you who have never been in a commercial kitchen (actually inside, not just seen Gordon “Fucking” Ramsay on T.V.) they are quite machismo environments, even most female chefs are crude, revolting and misogynistic and there is a certain amount of respect reserved for the culinary adventurous. I had a lot of “Kitchen Cred”, I owned “Nose to Tail Eating” by Fergus Henderson (and numerous other tomes dedicated to the processing of dead flesh), I had eaten king cobra with Burmese expats in Thailand, and roasted porcupine in Vietnam. I was vocal in my distaste for vegetarians (except those I personally knew) and regarded them as a personal affront to my keen abilities. I mean seriously, how could anyone not want to eat the duck liver parfait that I spent years (literally) perfecting, or the oxtail ravioli that was the very definition of the word unctuous. I put chicken stock in my soups just because I really and sincerely believed that those declining to rejoice in the suffering of others had absolutely no idea whatsoever about what exactly made food taste good and, via extension, life worth living.
For those years, I am truly sorry.
I spent years of my life, working under thuggish assholes, working to be better and more passionate than everyone around me, dealing with years of abuse in order to learn all the tricks of the trade when it comes to processing and manufacturing quality animal products, spending hours (on my own limited time) researching every aspect of animal processing from birth to slaughter and beyond.
I have detailed knowledge of Mailliard reactions, the science behind “resting” meats, over 100 methods of egg cookery, protein reactions to various temperatures in sous-vide, and the factors involved in the curdling of milk proteins for making cheeses.
I have finely honed skills in butchery, from frenching rib-bones and tying rib-eye for cooking to breaking down a quarter of pig, beef or venison (deer).
If I sound defensive, it’s probably because I am.
I would estimate 60-70% of all the knowledge I have accumulated from years of research focuses on the use of animal flesh and their secretions.
I have dedicated years to this knowledge.
It is all I currently know.
It is the only way I can earn a reasonable living.
This is not what I want.
I do not want to spend any of my day working with the blood of a non-human person crusted under my nails.
I want to dedicate my time and efforts to creating good food that does not include hours of suffering in its ingredients list.
I want to cook for people who feel the same.
I need you.
Vegans I need you to request vegan meals when eating out, be vocal, complement food that is good, and criticize the bad (please give reasons though), because without demand there will be no supply (even I can’t put on a food that won’t sell).
Omnivores, if you are here then I guess you are probably at least vegan curious so keep that up, expand your taste buds, there is so much more food out there when you start looking for it (how many of you have eaten seitan, tempeh, farro, quinoa) you will quickly realize that there is really no need for meat, dairy or eggs.
Chefs, I really don’t know what to say to you, but for those of you who are open minded and looking for more humane ways to create interesting food, great and thank you for being an inspiration!
And for those of you that either don’t care or actively sabotage vegans, fuck off, grow up, and don’t EVER step foot in my kitchen.
