To me star anise is the Ringo Starr of the spice world, it’s distinctive flavor is much better suited to a supporting role amidst other strong spices and flavors than being center stage (I’m sorry Ringo if you ever read this, you were a fantastic drummer, but in lead vocals I really think you are an acquired taste).
The powerful taste of star anise is due largely to the compound Anethone, a chemical also found in european anise (no botanical relative), tarragon, and liquorice. Anethone has a sweet flavor (of its own accord) and a strong scent. Believe it or not (no really, you should take this one on faith) the shiny seeds actually have far less flavor than the shell (or fruit) surrounding, which I found out much to my disgust when I decided to test this information (p.s. eating parsley helps to remove the flavor which was un-dissapated by anything else I tried).
At work (yes that same freaking steakhouse) I use star anise in combination with other herbs and spices to bring out Umami flavors in dishes (mostly meat based) that also have a high fat content, this is because (especially when combined with onions) the subtle application of anise has the effect of heightening this savory flavor. When used in Vegan cookery the effect can be the same, used with mushrooms, star anise emphasizes their mushroom-iness, and my favorite method of use is to combine white beans (for fat and body) kombu (for umami), and star anise. Any Vegan dish that has a high fat content and strong protein presence can benefit from a small amount of star anise.
I could go into the applications of star anise in sweet cooking but I really cannot stand the taste of liquorice.
If designing a new dish using star anise you should keep in mind its traditional accompaniments, in India it is used in conjunction with cardamom, cloves, pepper and cinnamon to make chai (combine with sugar and oat milk and simmer for 20-30 minutes, then steep black tea leaf, try it, it’s good.) or in China with the addition of szechuan pepper (prickly ash).
But seriously, do NOT chew the spice raw, it will be a mistake you will regret for most of the day.
